Compositions for altering the color of hair

ABSTRACT

The present disclosure relates to color-altering compositions. The compositions comprise a hair color-altering agent and at least one carboxylic acid. Certain compositions further comprise at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt thereof selected from the group consisting of taurine, aspartic acid, cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof. Also provided are kits and methods of using said color-altering compositions.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent ApplicationNo. 62/611,865, filed on Dec. 29, 2017, entitled “COMPOSITIONS FORALTERING THE COLOR OF HAIR,” the entirety of which is hereinincorporated by reference.

FIELD

The present disclosure generally relates to compositions for use inbleaching and/or coloring the hair.

BACKGROUND

The process of changing the color of hair, can involve depositing anartificial color onto the hair which provides a different shade or colorto the hair, and/or lifting the color of the hair, such as lighteningthe color of dark hair to lighter shades.

In general, hair lightening or color lifting compositions and hairdyeing compositions possess an alkalinity such that these compositionshave a pH value of above 7, typically being at pH 9 and above, and maygenerally require the presence of an alkalizing agent such as ammonia oran ammonia gas-generating compound and/or an amine or ammonium-basedcompound in amounts sufficient to make such compositions alkaline. Thisalkalizing agent causes the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing activeagents into the hair.

Imparting a color change or color effect on hair can be done usingpermanent and semi-permanent or temporary hair coloring products.Conventional permanent hair coloring products are dye compositionscomprising oxidation dye precursors, which are also known as primaryintermediates or couplers. These oxidation dye precursors are colorlessor weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizingproducts, give rise to colored complexes by a process of oxidativecondensation. The oxidizing products conventionally use peroxides suchas hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agents. Such permanent hair colorproducts also contain ammonia or other alkalizing agents such asmonoethanolamine (MEA) which causes the hair shaft to swell, thusallowing the small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle andcortex before the oxidation condensation process is completed. Theresulting larger-sized colored complexes from the oxidative reaction arethen trapped inside the hair fiber, thereby permanently altering thecolor of the hair.

Semi-permanent dyeing uses direct dyes, which are nonionic or ionic dyesand colored compounds capable of producing a more or less pronouncedchange of the natural color of the hair, resistant to shampoo-washingseveral times. These dyes may or may not be used in the presence of anoxidizing agent. In contrast with oxidation dye precursors, a direct dyeis a relatively voluminous molecule that does not penetrate easily intothe core of the fiber.

The process of lifting the color of hair, generally also requires theuse of compositions that comprise at least one oxidizing agent (e.g.,hydrogen peroxide). Such oxidizing agents enter the hair shaft and reactwith melanin in the hair, thereby lightening the color of the hair.Additional agents, such as persulfate salts, may be added to acceleratethe process.

While such hair compositions can effectively alter the color of hair,these chemical treatments can severely damage the hair fibers. Thus, inorder to reduce or avoid the drawbacks mentioned above, as well as toimprove the cosmetic performance of the treatment compositions, the useof new and additional ingredients and novel combinations of ingredientsare continuously sought which can help prevent, ameliorate or reversedamage.

Nevertheless, the choice of ingredients or combinations of ingredientscould pose difficulties insofar as they cannot be detrimental to othercosmetic attributes such as ease and uniformity of application, rheologyor viscosity properties and stability of the compositions, color depositand target shade formation, and/or result into more disadvantages suchas increased damage or a less healthy look to the hair. It wouldtherefore be desirable to provide the consumer with compositions andmethods that can effectively treat the hair, e.g. lift the color of hairand/or deposit color onto hair in an efficient manner, while providingother cosmetic advantages such as shine, conditioning, fiber strength,and/or a healthy appearance to the hair, but avoiding or minimizingdamage to the hair.

SUMMARY

One aspect of the invention pertains to a hair color-alteringcomposition. In one or more embodiments, the composition comprises:

-   -   at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt        thereof selected from the group consisting of taurine, aspartic        acid, cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine, phenylalanine,        carnitine, aminomethane sulfonic acid, aminopropane sulfonic        acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid,        aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid,        aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid,        sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic        acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic        acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, a salt thereof, and a        mixture thereof;    -   at least one carboxylic acid selected from the group consisting        of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid,        adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic        acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid,        citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic        acid, trimesic acid, and combinations thereof;    -   a hair color-altering agent selected from the group consisting        of oxidizing agents, oxidative dyes, direct dyes and        combinations thereof; and    -   water.

In some embodiments, the at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acidand/or salt thereof is taurine and/or a salt thereof. In one or moreembodiments, the composition comprises from about 0.01 wt. % to about 10wt. % of the at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid and/or asalt thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one amino acid or aminosulfonic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in an amount of fromabout 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. %. In one or more embodiments, thecomposition comprises at least 0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of the atleast one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof. In some embodiments,the at least one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in anamount of from about 0.01 wt. % to about 7 wt. %. In one or moreembodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof is atricarboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof. In some embodiments, thetricarboxylic acid and/or salt thereof is selected from the groupconsisting of citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid,propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, a salt thereof, and amixture thereof. In one or more embodiments, the tricarboxylic acidand/or salt thereof is citric acid, and/or a salt thereof. In someembodiments, the composition further comprises one or more alkalizingagents. In one or more embodiments, the one or more alkalizing agents isselected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organicamines, hydroxide base compounds, and combinations thereof. In someembodiments, the one or more alkalizing agents is selected from thegroup consisting of ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine andcombinations thereof. In one or more embodiments, the compositionfurther comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from the groupconsisting oils, mineral oil, alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids,fatty alcohol derivatives, alkoxylated fatty acids, polyethylene glycolesters of fatty acids, propylene glycol esters of fatty acids, butyleneglycol esters of fatty acids, esters of neopentyl glycol and fattyacids, polyglycerol/glycerol esters of fatty acids, glycol diesters ordiesters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids, esters of fatty acids andfatty alcohols, esters of short chain alcohols and fatty acids, estersof fatty alcohols, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceridecompounds, lanolin, ceramide, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments,the composition further comprises one or more cationic polymers. In oneor more embodiments, the one or more cationic polymers are selected fromthe group consisting of poly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammoniumchloride), polyquaternium-37, quaternized cellulose derivatives,polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10, cationic alkylpolyglycosides, cationized honey, cationic guar derivatives, polymericdimethyl diallyl ammonium salts and copolymers thereof with esters andamides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylateand methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloridecopolymers, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2,polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18,polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, and a mixture thereof. In someembodiments, the hair color-altering agent comprises and oxidative dye.

Another aspect of the invention pertains to a hair cosmetic compositionfor lifting or altering the color of keratinous substrates. In one ormore embodiments, the composition comprises:

-   -   a. at least one alkalizing agent selected from alkali metal        carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide        base compounds, and mixtures thereof;    -   b. at least two fatty substances selected from alkanes        comprising 6 to 16 carbon atoms, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty        acids, esters of fatty alcohol, non-silicone oils, non-silicone        waxes, silicones and mixtures thereof;    -   c. at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants,        nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof;    -   d. at least one cationic polymer;    -   e. at least one solvent selected from water, organic solvents        and mixtures thereof; and    -   f. at least one carboxylic acid selected from the group        consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic        acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid,        malic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic        acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid,        propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, and        combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least oneamino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt thereof selected fromthe group consisting of taurine, aspartic acid, cysteine, lysine,methionine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine, aminomethane sulfonicacid, aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid,aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid,chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenolsulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzenesulfonic acid. In one or more embodiments, the at least one amino acidor amino sulfonic acid comprises taurine. In one or more embodiments,the composition further comprises at least one hair color-alteringagent. In some embodiments, the at least one hair color-altering agentcomprises at least one oxidative dye. In one or more embodiments, the atleast one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in an amountof about 0.05 wt. % to about 10 wt. % by total weight of thecomposition. In one or more embodiments, the at least one alkalizingagent is selected from the group consisting of monoethanolamine,ammonium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, thecationic polymer is selected from the group consisting ofpoly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride),polyquaternium-37, quaternized cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-4,polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10, cationic alkyl polyglycosides,cationized honey, cationic guar derivatives, polymeric dimethyl diallylammonium salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylicacid and methacrylic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone withquaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate,vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers,quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-7,polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-24,polyquaternium-27, and a mixture thereof. In one or more embodiments,the at least two fatty substances are selected from mineral oil,cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, glycol distearate, hydrogenatedvegetable oil, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the haircolor-altering composition does not comprise a thickener, cellulose orgum. In one or more embodiments, the at least one surfactant comprisesan anionic surfactant selected from oleic acid and/or a nonionicsurfactant selected from deceth-3, oleth-30 and combinations thereof.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

FIGS. 1A-B show the evolution of elastic modulus (G′) measured as afunction of time and temperature of inventive and comparative formulas;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the break stress of hair treated withcompositions according to the instant disclosure (B-F) and hair treatedwith a commercial benchmark product; and

FIG. 3 is a graph showing the Young's modulus (the elastic modulus) ofhair treated with compositions according to the instant disclosure (B-F)and hair treated with a commercial benchmark product.

It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to thearrangements and instrumentality shown in the drawings.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

One aspect of the invention relates to hair color-altering compositions.The hair color-altering compositions at least comprise a haircolor-altering agent and a carboxylic acid. In one or more embodiments,hair color-altering composition comprises

-   -   at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt        thereof selected from the group consisting of taurine, aspartic        acid, cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine, phenylalanine,        carnitine, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof;    -   at least one carboxylic acid selected from the group consisting        of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid,        adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic        acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid,        citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic        acid, trimesic acid, and combinations thereof;    -   a hair color-altering agent selected from the group consisting        of oxidizing agents, oxidative dyes, direct dyes and        combinations thereof; and    -   water.

In some embodiments, the hair color-altering composition comprises

-   -   at least one alkalizing agent selected from alkali metal        carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide        base compounds, and mixtures thereof;    -   at least two fatty substances selected from alkanes comprising 6        to 16 carbon atoms, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids,        esters of fatty alcohol, non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes,        silicones and mixtures thereof;    -   at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants,        nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof;    -   at least one cationic polymer;    -   at least one solvent selected from water, organic solvents and        mixtures thereof; and    -   at least one carboxylic acid selected from the group consisting        of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid,        adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic        acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid,        citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic        acid, trimesic acid, and combinations thereof.

The presence of citric acid has surprisingly been found to positivelyaffect the rheology characteristics of certain hair color-alteringcompositions, particularly in combination with several other ingredients(e.g., certain surfactants an fatty substances). Additionally, citricacid/or taurine may also provide protect the hair from damage whenundergoing color alteration.

The hair color-altering compositions of the instant disclosure can be ina variety of forms. For example, in many instances, the haircolor-altering compositions are in the form of a liquid, gel, lotion,crème, and/or spray. The hair color-altering compositions may bepackaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, aready-to-use container. Non-limiting examples of useful packaginginclude tubes, jars, caps, unit dose packages, and bottles, includingsqueezable tubes and bottles.

Amino Acid/Amino Sulfonic Acid

In some embodiments, the hair color-altering compositions comprise anamino acid or amino sulfonic acid. Amino acids are simple organiccompounds containing both a carboxylic acid group (—COOH) and an aminogroup (—NH₂). Amino sulfonic acids are simple organic compoundscontaining both a sulfonic acid group (—SO₂OH) and an amino group(—NH₂). Accordingly; the amino acids and amino sulfonic acids may beselected from compounds of Formula (I) and compounds of Formula (II):

wherein R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, preferablylinear, C₁-C₅ alkyl group, said alkyl group being optionally substitutedwith at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, —C(O)—OH, —S(O)₂—OH,—C(O)—O⁻ and M⁺, and S(O)₂—O⁻ and M⁺, with M⁺ representing a cationiccounter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium,and n is 0 or 1. In the hair color-altering compositions containingthem, the amino acids and amino sulfonic acids may be in theirnon-ionized form (I) and (II) or in their ionized or betaine form (I′)and (II′):

wherein “R” and “n” are as defined above. The one or more amino acidsand/or amino sulfonic acids may also be in their conjugate base form(Ib) and (IIb).

wherein “R” and “n” are as defined above.

Well-known amino adds include the twenty amino acids that form theproteins of living organisms (standard proteinogenic amino acids):alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic add, cysteine, glutamic acid,glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine,phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, andvaline. The amino acids of the instant disclosure, however, are notlimited to the standard proteinogenic amino adds.

Non-limiting examples of amino sulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid,aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid,chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenolsulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, charged amino acids may be used. Non-limiting examples ofcharged amino acids include arginine, lysine, aspartic acid, andglutamic acid. In some cases, polar amino acids are useful. Non-limitingexamples of polar amino acids include glutamine, asparagine, histidine,serine, threonine, tyrosine, cysteine, methionine, and tryptophan.

In some cases, hydrophobic amino acids may be employed. Non-limitingexamples of hydrophobic amino acids include alanine, isoleucine,leucine, phenylalanine, valine, proline, and glycine.

In some instances, the hair color-altering compositions include at leastone amino acid or an amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt thereof,selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, serine,beta-alanine, taurine, sodium glycinate, sodium alaninate, sodiumserinate, lithium beta-alanine, sodium taurate, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the hair color-altering compositions include only aminoacid(s) and/or salt(s) thereof, only sulfonic acid(s) and/or salt(s)thereof, or a mixture of both amino acids and sulfonic acids, and/orsalts thereof, for example, one or more amino acids and one or moreamino sulfonic acids, and/or salts thereof, for example, those selectedfrom the group consisting of aspartic acid, cysteine, glycine, lysine,methionine, proline, tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine, taurine, a saltthereof, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the hair color-altering compositions include at leasttaurine (2-aminoethane sulfonic acid) and/or a salt thereof.

The total amount of the at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid,and/or salt thereof, is at least 0.01 wt. %, based on the total weightof the hair color-altering composition. The total amount of the at leastone amino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or salt thereof, may be fromabout 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 wt. % to about 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08,0.09, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 wt. % of the total composition.For example, the at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid and/or asalt thereof may be present from about 0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt. % ofthe total composition, or more particularly from about 0.01 wt. % toabout 5 wt. % of the total composition.

Carboxylic Acid

The hair color-altering compositions may include at least one carboxylicacid, and/or a salt thereof, typically in an amount of at least 0.01 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair color-altering composition.

A non-polymeric mono, di, and/or tricarboxylic acid is an organiccompound having one (mono), two (di), or three (tri) carboxylic acidgroups (—COOH). The non-polymeric mono, di, and tricarboxylic acids,and/or salts thereof, typically have a molecular weight of less thanabout 500 g/mol, less than about 400 g/mol, or less than about 300g/mol.

Non-limiting examples of mono-carboxylic acids, or salts thereof,include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valericacid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid,capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, lauric acid,tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid,margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lacticacid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the haircolor-altering compositions include at least lactic acid and/or a saltthereof.

Non-limiting examples of di-carboxylic acids and/or salts thereofinclude oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconicacid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleicacid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid,isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid,a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the haircolor-altering compositions include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malicacid, maleic acid, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids and salts thereof includecitric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylicacid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixturethereof. In some instances, the hair color-altering compositions includeat least citric acid and/or a salt thereof.

In one or more embodiments, the hair color-altering composition compriseat least one carboxylic acid selected from the group consisting ofoxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid,glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, sebacic acid,maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid,propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, and combinationsthereof.

The total amount of the at least one non-polymeric mono, di, ortricarboxylic acid, and/or a salt thereof, is at least 0.01 wt. %, basedon the total weight of the hair color-altering composition. In somecases, the total amount of the at least one non-polymeric mono, di, ortricarboxylic acid, and/or salt thereof, ranges from about 0.01, 0.02,0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 wt. % to about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 wt. %by total weight of the composition.

Hair Color-Altering Agent

The hair color-altering compositions may comprise a hair color-alteringagent selected from the group consisting of oxidizing agents, oxidativedyes, direct dyes.

In embodiments comprising oxidizing agents, the at least one oxidizingagent may be chosen, for example, from peroxides, persulfates,perborates, percarbonates, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides,peroxygenated salts, alkali metal carbonates, or a mixture thereof.Oxidizing agents that may also be used include at least one redox enzymesuch as laccases, peroxidases, and 2-electron oxidoreductases, such asuricase, where appropriate in the presence of their respective donor orco-factor. Oxygen in the air may also be employed as an oxidizing agent.

In one embodiment, the oxidizing agent can be hydrogen peroxide presentin an aqueous solution whose titer may range from 1 to 40 volumes, suchas from 5 to 40 volumes or such as from 5 to 20 volumes.

In another embodiment, the oxidizing agent can be a persulfate and/or amonopersulfate such as, for example, potassium persulfate, sodiumpersulfate, ammonium persulfate, as well as mixtures thereof. In oneembodiment, the oxidizing agents in the present disclosure are selectedfrom hydrogen peroxide, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, andmixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the oxidizing agent ishydrogen peroxide.

In general, the oxidizing agent will be present in an amount rangingfrom about 0.05 to about 50% by weight, such as from about 0.1% to about30% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, or from about 1%to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the developercomposition or solution or system in which it is present.

In embodiments comprising oxidation dyes, the oxidation dyes aregenerally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combinedwith one or more couplers. By way of example, the oxidation bases may bechosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines,para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and theaddition salts thereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, arepara-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine,2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine,4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline,N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline,4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline,2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine,2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-(4′-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine,2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotolueneand 3-hydroxy-1-(4′-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition saltsthereof with an acid.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine,para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition saltsthereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, forexample, areN,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol,N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(ethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition saltsthereof.

Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, arepara-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol,4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol,4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol,4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol,4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol,and the addition salts thereof with an acid.

Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.

Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, arepyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, forinstance 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridineand 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.

Other pyridine oxidation bases can include the3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition saltsthereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid,2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol,2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol,2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol,(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol,3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine,pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine,7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine,5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol,2-□-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine;2-(4-dimethylpyperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; and theaddition salts thereof.

More particularly, oxidation bases can be selected from3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on carbonatom 2 by:

-   -   (a) one (di)(C₁-C₆)(alkyl)amino group wherein said alkyl group        can be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium        group;    -   (b) one heterocycloalkyl group containing from 5 to 7 members        chain, and from 1 to 3 heteroatomes, potentially cationic,        potentially substituted by one or more (C₁-C₆)alkyl, such as        di(C₁-C₄)alkylpiperazinium; or    -   (c) one (C₁-C₆)alkoxy potentially substituted by one or more        hydroxy groups such as α-hydroxyalkoxy, and the addition salts        thereof.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine,2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomericforms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applicationsWO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole,3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4′-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole,4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole,4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole,1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-(p-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl-pyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole,4-amino-5-(2′-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole,3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole,3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole,3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the additionsalts thereof. 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even morepreferentially 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a saltthereof.

Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned includediamino-N,N-dihydro-pyrazolopyrazolones and especially those describedin patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compoundsand the addition salts thereof:2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.

2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a saltthereof will preferably be used.

4,5-Diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a saltthereof will preferentially be used as heterocyclic bases.

Compositions and/or systems according to embodiments of the disclosuremay optionally further comprise one or more couplers advantageouslychosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing or coloring ofkeratinous substrates.

Among these couplers, mention may be made especially ofmeta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols,naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also theaddition salts thereof.

Mention may be made, for example, of 2-methyl-5-aminophenol,5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol,5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol (3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol),1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-benzene,4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene,2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene,1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline,3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol,1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol,2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole,4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine,6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,1-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene,2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline,2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole,2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof with anacid, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers thatmay be used in the context of the invention are especially selected fromthe addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides,hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates,tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The oxidation base(s) may be present in an amount ranging from about0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005% to 5% by weight,relative to the total weight of the system or composition comprising thesystem in which it is present.

The coupler(s), if they are present, may be present in an amount rangingfrom about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005% to 5% byweight, relative to the total weight of the system or compositioncomprising the system in which it is present.

Compositions according to embodiments of the disclosure may optionallycomprise one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, for examplechosen from anionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic ornonionic species, either as sole dyes or in addition to the oxidationdye(s).

Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azodirect dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanins, hemicyanins andstyryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes;tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, andnatural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.

Preferably direct dyes are cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made ofthe hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (Va) and (V′a), the azo cationicdyes (Via) and (VI′a) and the diazo cationic dyes (Vila) below:

Het⁺-C(R^(a))═N—N(R^(b)) —Ar, An⁻ (Va) Het⁺-N(R^(a))—N═C(R^(b))—Ar, An⁻(V′a) Het⁺-N═N—Ar, An⁻ (VIa) Ar⁺—N═N—Ar″, An⁻ (VI′a) andHet⁺-N═N—Ar′—N═N—Ar, An⁻ (VIIa)

in which formulas (Va), (V′a), (Via), (VI′a) and (Vila):

-   -   Het⁺ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably        bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium,        indolium or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially        with one or more (C₁-C₈) alkyl groups such as methyl;    -   Ar⁺ representing an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl,        bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium,        particularly tri(C₁-C₈)alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium;    -   Ar represents an aryl group, especially phenyl, which is        optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more        electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted        (C₁-C₈)alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (C₁-C₈)alkoxy, iii)        (di)(C₁-C₈)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl        group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C₁-C₈)alkylamino, v)        optionally substituted N—(C₁-C₈)alkyl-N-aryl(C₁-C₈)alkylamino or        alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;    -   Ar′ is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group        such as phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene,        which are optionally substituted, preferentially with one or        more groups (C₁-C₈)alkyl, hydroxyl or (C₁-C₈)alkoxy;    -   Ar″ is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as        phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted,        preferentially with one or more groups (C₁-C₈)alkyl, hydroxyl,        (di)(C₁-C₈)(alkyl)amino, (C₁-C₈)alkoxy or phenyl;    -   R^(a) and R^(b), which may be identical or different, represent        a hydrogen atom or a group (C₁-C₈)alkyl, which is optionally        substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group;

or alternatively the substituent R^(a) with a substituent of Het⁺ and/orR^(b) with a substituent of Ar and/or R^(a) with R^(b) form, togetherwith the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl;

particularly, R^(a) and R^(b) represent a hydrogen atom or a group(C₁-C₄)alkyl, which is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;

-   -   An⁻ represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or        halide.

In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono cationicdyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae (Va), (V′a) and(Via) as defined previously. More particularly those of formulae (Va),(V′a) and (Via) derived from the dyes described in patent applicationsWO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.

Preferentially, the cationic part is derived from the followingderivatives:

formulae (V-1) and (VI-1) with:

-   -   R¹ representing a (C₁-C₄) alkyl group such as methyl;    -   R² and R³, which are identical or different, represent a        hydrogen atom or a (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, such as methyl; and    -   R⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such        as optionally substituted (C₁-C₈)alkyl, optionally substituted        (C₁-C₈)alkoxy, or (di)(C₁-C₈)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted        on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; particularly, R⁴ is        a hydrogen atom,    -   Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH;    -   An⁻ represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or        halide.        The dye of formulae (Va-1) and (Via-1) can be chosen from Basic        Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives        thereof:

Among the natural direct dyes, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone,alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin,protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidinand orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and inparticular henna-based poultices or extracts may also be used.

When they are present, the one or more direct dyes more particularlyrepresent from about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005%to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the system or compositioncomprising the system in which it is present.

Alkalizing Agents

In some embodiments, the hair-color altering composition comprises analkalizing agent. The alkalizing agent the present invention may bechosen from organic amines, organic amine salts, ammonium salts,inorganic bases, and hydroxide base compounds.

The organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25° C. ofless than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should benoted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highestbasicity.

Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or twoprimary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linearor branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.

Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di-or trialkylamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, anilineand cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole,imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine,pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.

Among the compounds of the alkanolamine type that may be mentionedinclude but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known asmonoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine,monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine,2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine,2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol,3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, andtris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Other organic amines correspond to the formula (IV):

wherein W is chosen from C1-C6 alkylene residues optionally substitutedwith a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, whichmay be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, C1-C6alkyl radicals, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl radicals, and C1-C6 aminoalkylradicals.

Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include but not limitedto: 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, andspermidine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.

As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that may be used may be ofnatural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise atleast one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid,sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. The aminoacids may be in their neutral or ionic form.

Further as non-limiting examples, the amino acids may be chosen frombasic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionallyincluded in a ring or in a ureido function.

Such basic amino acids may be chosen from those corresponding to formula(A) below:

wherein R is a group chosen from:

The compounds corresponding to formula (A) may be chosen from histidine,lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline.

Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but notlimited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine,citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine,histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine,proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from basic aminoacids. The amino acids may be chosen from, for instance, arginine,lysine and histidine, or mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from organic aminesof heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentionedin the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine,piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino aciddipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the presentdisclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from compoundscomprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type that may beused in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that hasalready been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine,1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin,agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid,4-guanidinobutyric acid, and2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

As a non-limiting example, the organic amines are chosen fromalkanolamines. For example, the organic amines are chosen fromethanolamine, triethanoloamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (aminomethyl propanol), or preferably from 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol andmonoethanolamine, or mixtures thereof. Further as an example, theorganic amine is monoethanolamine.

The alkalizing agent may be an organic amine in salt form. The term“organic amine salt,” as used herein, means organic or mineral salts ofan organic amine as described above.

As a non-limiting example, the organic salts may be chosen from thesalts of organic acids, such as citrates, lactates, glycolates,gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates.

Further as a non-limiting example, the mineral salts may be chosen fromhydrohalides (for example hydrochlorides), carbonates, hydrogencarbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates, and phosphates.

The ammonium salts that may be used according to the present disclosuremay be chosen from the following acid salts: carbonate, bicarbonate. Forinstance, the salt is the carbonate, such as ammonium carbonate.

The inorganic bases that may be used may be chosen from alkali metalphosphates and carbonates such as, for example, sodium phosphate,potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassiumcarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their derivatives.

The inorganic bases may also include alkali metals of carboxylates suchas, for example, sodium acetate, potassium acetate, sodium citrate, andpotassium citrate, and their derivatives.

The hydroxide base compounds can be chosen from alkali metal hydroxides,alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternaryammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitableexamples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide,lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, franciumhydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide,strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganesehydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, ceriumhydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide,aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

According to at least one embodiment, the alkalizing agent is chosenfrom alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphate, organic amines,hydroxide base compounds, and derivatives thereof.

According to at least one embodiment, the alkalizing agent is chosenfrom aminomethyl propanol, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol aminesodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide,dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine lysine, ornithine, arginine,monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calciumbicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof

According to one embodiment, the alkalizing agent is chosen from atleast one organic amine such as at least one alkanolamine. Aparticularly preferred alkanolamine is ethanolamine (also known asmonoethanolamine or MEA).

According to one embodiment, the alkalizing agent is chosen from atleast one hydroxide base compounds, a particularly preferred hydroxidebase compounds is ammonium hydroxide,

According to one embodiment, the alkalizing agent comprises ammoniumhydroxide and ethanolamine.

The at least one alkalizing agent of the present invention may beemployed in an amount of from about 2% to about 20% by weight, such asfrom about 2% to about 11% by weight, and further such as from about4.5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair colorcomposition of the present invention, including increments and rangestherein there between.

The total amount of the alkalizing agent in the present invention may beemployed in an amount of from about 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12,13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, to about 20 percent by weight, includingincrements and ranges therein there between.

The amount of the alkalizing agent in the composition can be such thatthe pH of the composition can be neutral or alkaline range pH above 7.

According to at least one embodiment, the compositions or compositionsfor altering the color of keratin fibers of the present inventioncontain a small amount (i.e., greater than 0 but less than 8, 7, 6, 5,4, 3 or 2% by weight) of ammonia, or is substantially free of ammonia.

According to another embodiment, the compositions or compositions foraltering the color of keratin fibers of the present invention containammonia/ammonium hydroxide in an amount such that it is used as thealkalizing agent in the compositions.

Fatty Substances

Fatty substances (also referred to interchangeably as “fatty compounds”)may be included in one or more embodiments of the invention. In someembodiments, two or more fatty substances may be included. In furtherembodiments, such fatty substances may be a fatty substance other than afatty acid. As used herein, “fatty substance” means an organic compoundinsoluble in water at normal temperature (25° C.) and at atmosphericpressure (760 mmHg) (solubility below 5% and such as below 1% andfurther such as below 0.1%). Fatty substances have in their structure achain of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon chainhaving at least 6 carbon atoms. Moreover, fatty substances are generallysoluble in organic solvents in the same conditions of temperature andpressure, for example in chloroform, ethanol, benzene ordecamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Fatty substances are, for example, chosen from lower alkanes, fattyalcohols, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, oils such asmineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic non-silicone oils, non-siliconewaxes and silicones.

In some embodiments, the alcohols and esters have at least one linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising 6 to 30carbon atoms, optionally substituted, for example, with at least onehydroxyl group (for example 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, thesecompounds can have one to three, conjugated or unconjugated,carbon-carbon double bonds.

With regard to the lower alkanes, in some embodiments, these have from 6to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Asexamples, alkanes can be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffinssuch as isohexadecane and isodecane.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils usable in the composition ofthe disclosure, include: esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particulardiglycerol esters, especially condensates of adipic acid and ofglycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerolshas reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capricacid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particularthose sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol; arachidylpropionate, sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzol; fatty acidtriglycerides and their derivatives; pentaerythritol esters; esters ofdimer diol and dimer diacid, if appropriate esterified on their freealcohol or acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, inparticular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen inparticular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature:bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate(Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA orLusplan PHY/IS-DA), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures; mangobutter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 byAarhusKarlshamn; hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil,hydrogenated rapeseed oil or mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils,such as the soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetableoil mixture, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® byAarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil); shea butter, inparticular that having the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, suchas that sold under the reference Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn; cocoabutter, in particular that which is sold under the name CT Cocoa ButterDeodorized by Dutch Cocoa BV or that which is sold under the name BeurreDe Cacao NCB HD703 758 by Barry Callebaut; shorea butter, in particularthat which is sold under the name Dub Shorea T by Stearinerie Dubois;and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance is chosen fromhydrogenated vegetable oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, asoybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture,and their mixtures, and more particularly those referenced above.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils usable in the composition ofthe disclosure, include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such asperhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquidtriglycerides of fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such astriglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or for example sunfloweroil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil,hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil,castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such asthose sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under thenames MIGLYOL® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojobaoil, shea butter oil; hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms,linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffinoils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenatedpolyisobutene such as Parleam®. fluorinated, partially hydrocarbon oils;as fluorinated oils, non-limiting examples includeperfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, soldunder the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFLFluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanessuch as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under thenames “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the 3M Company, orbromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the companyAtochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane;derivatives of perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the 3M Company.The non-silicone oils of the present invention may be employed in anamount of from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, such as from about 1%to about 5.5% by weight, and further such as from about 1.5% to about 4%by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color composition ofthe present invention, including increments and ranges therein therebetween.

The total amount of the non-silicone oils in the present invention maybe employed in an amount of from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3,4, to about 5 percent by weight, including increments and ranges thereinthere between.

As used herein, “fatty alcohol” refers to any alcohol with a carbonchain of C5 or greater, such as, for example, C8 or greater, C10 orgreater, and C12 or greater. The at least one fatty alcohol may bechosen from, for example, C9-C11 alcohols, C12-C13 alcohols, C12-C15alcohols, C12-C16 alcohols, C14-C15 alcohols, arachidyl alcohol, behenylalcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconutalcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol,lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palmkernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, and tridecyl alcohol.

As used herein, “alkoxylated fatty alcohol” refers to any fatty alcoholwith a carbon chain of C5 or greater, as defined above, furthercomprising at least one alkoxy group. For example, the at least onealkoxylated fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain of C8 or greater, C10or greater, and C12 or greater. Further, for example, the at least onealkoxylated fatty alcohol may be chosen from alkoxylated polymers(including co-, ter- and homo-polymers) derived from alcohols such asglycerol (e.g. polyglyceryl derived from four glycerol molecules). Theat least one alkoxy group of the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcoholmay, for example, be derived from an alkoxylation reaction carried outwith alkylene oxide. Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxylatedfatty alcohol include any fatty alcohol comprising at least onepolyethylene glycol ether and any fatty alcohol comprising at least onepolypropylene glycol ether.

Non-limiting examples of the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcoholinclude ceteareth-2, ceteareth-3, ceteareth-4, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-6,ceteareth-7, ceteareth-8, ceteareth-9, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-11,ceteareth-12, ceteareth-13, ceteareth-14, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16,ceteareth-17, ceteareth-18, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-22, ceteareth-23,ceteareth-24, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-27, ceteareth-28, ceteareth-29,ceteareth-30, ceteareth-33, ceteareth-34, ceteareth-40, ceteareth-50,ceteareth-55, ceteareth-60, ceteareth-80, ceteareth-100, laureth-1,laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5, laureth-6, laureth-7,laureth-8, laureth-9, laureth-10, laureth-11, laureth-12, laureth-13,laureth-14, laureth-15, laureth-16, laureth-20, laureth-23, laureth-25,laureth-30, laureth-40, deceth-3, deceth-5, oleth-5, oleth-30,steareth-2, steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-100, cetylsteareth-12,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-5, polyglyceryl 4-lauryl ether, polyglyceryl4-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-cetyl ether,polyglyceryl 6-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-oleylcetyl ether,polyglyceryl 6-octadecyl ether, C9-C11 pareth-3, C9-C11 pareth-6,C11-C15 pareth-3, C11-C15 pareth-5, C11-C15 pareth-12, C 11-C15pareth-20, C12-C15 pareth-9, C12-C15 pareth-12, and C22-C24 pareth-33.

The fatty alcohols usable as fatty substances in the composition of thedisclosure include, but are not limited to, non-alkoxylated, saturatedor unsaturated, linear or branched, and have from 6 to 30 carbon atomsand more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; For example, cetylalcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol),octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol,oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.

The exemplary non-silicone wax or waxes that can be used in thecomposition of the disclosure are chosen from carnauba wax, candelillawax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such asolive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes offlowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by thecompany BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswaxes, or modifiedbeeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials usableaccording to the disclosure are, for example, marine waxes such as thatsold by the company SOPHIM under reference M82, waxes of polyethylene orof polyolefins in general.

The exemplary fatty acid esters are the esters of saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids andof saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono-or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons of the esters being, forexample, greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, non-limiting mentions can be made ofdihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyllactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate;linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyloctanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetylisostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate;isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexylisononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate;octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates,ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates suchas isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyl, stearyl myristate,hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyllaurate, and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Further non-limiting mentions of esters can be made of the esters ofC4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the estersof mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- orpentahydroxy alcohols.

Even further non-limiting examples of esters include: diethyl sebacate;diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyladipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecylerucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryltrilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleylcitrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;diethylene glycol diisanonate; glycol distearates; and polyethyleneglycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, exemplary esters include ethyl,isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate,2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl,cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate,isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurateand isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-estersof sugars of C6-C30, such as C12-C22 fatty acids. “Sugar” as used in thedisclosure means oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds that possessseveral alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions,and having at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides,oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As suitable sugars, non-limiting examples include sucrose, glucose,galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose,xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such asmethylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can, for example, be chosen fromthe esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and oflinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, such as C12-C22fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one tothree, conjugated or unconjugated, carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to at least one embodiment can also be chosen frommono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate,behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate,arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as the oleo-palmitate,oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate mixed esters.

For example, the mono- and di-esters can be used, and such as the mono-or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate,oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose.

Non-limiting mention can be made of the product sold under the nameGLUCATE® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a dioleate ofmethylglucose.

Exemplary esters or of mixtures of esters of sugar of fatty acidinclude: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70,SL40 by the company Crodesta, denoting respectively thepalmito-stearates of sucrose formed from 73% of monoester and 27% of di-and tri-ester, from 61% of monoester and 39% of di-, tri-, andtetra-ester, from 52% of monoester and 48% of di-, tri-, andtetra-ester, from 45% of monoester and 55% of di-, tri-, andtetra-ester, from 39% of monoester and 61% of di-, tri-, andtetra-ester, and the mono-laurate of sucrose; the products sold underthe name Ryoto Sugar Esters for example with the reference B370 andcorresponding to the behenate of sucrose formed from 20% of monoesterand 80% of di-triester-polyester; sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearatemarketed by the company Goldschmidt under the name TEGOSOFT® PSE.

Surfactants

In some embodiments, the hair color-altering compositions comprise atleast one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionicsurfactants and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more surfactants included in the haircolor-altering compositions can vary, especially depending on the typeof hair color-altering composition in with they are contained. The totalamount of the one or more surfactants is typically about 0.1 to about 40wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair color-altering composition,including all ranges and subranges therebetween. In some cases, thetotal amount of the one or more surfactants is about 0.1 to about 35 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 30 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 25 wt. %, about 0.1to about 20 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10wt. %, about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 40 wt. %, about0.5 to about 35 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 30 wt. %, about 0.5 to about25 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 15 wt. %,about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, about 1 wt. %to about 40 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, about 1 wt. % toabout 20 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 15 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about10 wt. %, or about 1 wt. % to about 5 wt. %.

Anionic Surfactants

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic orionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are chosenpreferably from the groups CO₂H, CO₂ ⁻, SO₃H, SO₃ ⁻, OSO₃H, OSO₃⁻O₂PO₂H, O₂PO₂H and O₂PO₂ ²⁻.

The hair color-altering compositions may include one or more anionicsurfactants. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include alkylsulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, acyl isethionates, acyl glycinates, acyltaurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates,sulfonates, and a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups ofall these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. In some cases,anionic sulfate surfactants may be excluded from the one or more anionicsurfactants. In such cases, the one or more anionic surfactants may beselected from the group consisting of acyl isethionates, acylglycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates,sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyland acyl groups of all these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbonatoms. A more exhaustive list of anionic surfactants that may beincluded in the hair color-altering compositions is provided later,under the heading “Anionic Surfactants.”

The total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants may be about 1to about 40 wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair color-alteringcomposition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.Furthermore, the total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants maybe about 1 to about 35 wt. %, about 1 to about 30 wt. %, about 5 wt. %to about 40 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 25 wt. %, about 5 wt. % toabout 30 wt. %, about 10 wt. % to about 40 wt. %, about 10 wt. % toabout 35 wt. %, or about 15 wt. % to about 40 wt. %.

The anionic surfactant(s) that may be used may be alkyl sulfates, alkylether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates,alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates,alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates,alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts ofalkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates,salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylicacids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts ofalkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all ofthese compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compoundscontaining from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting aphenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and thenpreferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C₆-C₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylicacids may be chosen from C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C₆-C₂₄alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosenespecially from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium saltand preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and inparticular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such asthe magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned includemonoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts,monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts,2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediolsalts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal oralkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesiumsalts may be used.

Use is also made of (C₆-C₂₄)alkyl sulfates, (C₆-C₂₄)alkyl ethersulfates, which are optionally ethoxylated, comprising from 2 to 50ethylene oxide units, and a mixture thereof, in particular in the formof alkali metal salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts oramino alcohol salts. More preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) arechosen from (C₁₀-C₂₀)alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular sodiumlauryl ether sulfate.

Non-Ionic Surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, e.g.,in this regard, “Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Sonpublishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178), which isincorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

The total amount of the one or more non-ionic surfactants may be about 1to about 40 wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair color-alteringcomposition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.Furthermore, the total amount of the one or more non-ionic surfactantsmay be about 1 to about 35 wt. %, about 1 to about 30 wt. %, about 5 wt.% to about 40 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 25 wt. %, about 5 wt. % toabout 30 wt. %, about 10 wt. % to about 40 wt. %, about 10 wt. % toabout 35 wt. %, or about 15 wt. % to about 40 wt. %.

The non-ionic surfactant can be, for example, selected from alcohols,alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compoundsbeing ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least onefatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it beingpossible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups torange from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mentionmay also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propyleneoxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide withfatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example,from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amidescomprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils from plant origin; fatty acidesters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol;polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol(C₆-C₂₄)alkylpolyglycosides; N—(C₆-C₂₄)alkylglucamine derivatives, amineoxides such as (C₁₀-C₁₄)alkylamine oxides orN—(C₁₀-C₁₄)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and a mixture thereof.

The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen frompolyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. Theoxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropyleneunits, or a mixture thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentionedinclude: [0115] oxyalkylenated (C₈-C₂₄)alkylphenols, saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀ alcohols,saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀amides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀acids and of polyethylene glycols, polyoxyalkylenated esters ofsaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀ acids and ofsorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, oxyalkylenated plant oils,condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia,alone or as mixtures.

As examples of polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, polyglycerolatedC₈-C₄₀ alcohols are preferably used. In particular, the polyglycerolatedC₈-C₄₀ alcohols correspond to the following formula:

RO—[CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O]_(m)—H or RO—[CH(CH₂OH)—CH₂O]_(m)—H

in which R represents a linear or branched C₈-C₄₀ and preferably C₈-C₃₀alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of theinvention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol ofglycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcoholcontaining 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol ofglycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcoholcontaining 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether),cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcoholcontaining 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol ofglycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

According to one of the embodiments according to the present invention,the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols withfatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for examplefrom 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, andalkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number ofalkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100,such as glyceryl esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid oracids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number ofalkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;polyethylene glycol esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acidor acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a numberof alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;sorbitol esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid or acids andalkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number ofalkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferablyC₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof,preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and morepreferably from 10 to 100; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugar anda C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty alcohol or alcohols; and a mixturethereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant with anHLB of 18.0 or less, such as from 4.0 to 18.0, more preferably from 6.0to 15.0 and furthermore preferably from 9.0 to 13.0. The HLB is theratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in themolecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and isdescribed in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifierselection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

In some case, the nonionic surfactant is a fatty alkanolamide.Non-limiting examples of fatty alkanolamides that may be used includecocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, soyamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA,stearamide MEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA,tallowamide DEA lauramide MIPA, tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA,isostearamide MEA, and a mixture thereof.

Cationic Polymer

In some instances, the hair color-altering compositions include one ormore cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymersinclude poly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride),polyquaternium-37, quaternized cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-4,polyquaternium-10, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey,cationic guar derivatives, polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts andcopolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid andmethacrylic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternizedderivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, quaternizedpolyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-7,polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-24,polyquaternium-27, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the one ormore cationic polymers may be selected from the group consisting ofpolyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, cationic guar derivatives, and amixture thereof.

The cationic polymers can be a monoalkyl quaternary amine, such asstearyltrimonium chloride, soyatrimonium chloride or coco-ethyldimoniumethosulfate. Other suitable cationic polymers include, but are notlimited to, behentrimonium chloride, dialkyl quaternary amines, such asdicetyldimonium chloride, dicocodimethyl ammonium chloride ordistearyldimethyl ammonium chloride; and polyquaternium compounds, suchas Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-22 or Polyquaternium-5.

For example, cationic polymers may be chosen from polyquaterium-10 (alsocalled quaternized polyhydroxyethyl cellulose), cetrimonium chloride(also called cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, CTAC), behentrimoniumchloride (also known as docosyl trimethyl ammonium chloride),behentrimonium methosulfate, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkoniumchloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimoniumchloride, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, Quaternium-91, Salcare/PQ-37, Quaternium-22,Quaternium-87, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-11,Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-67, amodimethicone, lauryl betaine,Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzedwheat protein, behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, lauryldimoniumhydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, aminopropyl dimethicone,Quaterium-8, and dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimethicone PEG-7phosphate.

In some instances, the cationic polymers are cationic conditioningpolymers. Examples of cationic conditioning polymers that can be usedinclude, without limitation, cationic cellulose, cationic proteins, andcationic polymers. The cationic polymers can have a vinyl group backboneof amino and/or quaternary ammonium monomers. Cationic amino andquaternary ammonium monomers include, without limitation, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, trialkyl methacryoloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkylacryloxyalkyl ammonium salts, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, vinylcompounds substituted with dialkyl aminoalkyl acrylate, and vinylquaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen containingrings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, or quaternized pyrrolidine. Otherexamples of cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include,without limitation, hydroxypropyltrimonium honey, cocodimonium silkamino acids, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat or silkprotein, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-2,polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-14,polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-10, and guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

In some cases quaternized polymeric cationic polymers are particularlyuseful. Particularly preferred are quaternary nitrogen polymers preparedby the polymerization of a dialkyldiallylammonium salt or copolymerthereof in which the alkyl group contains 1 to about 18 carbon atoms,and more preferably where the alkyl group is methyl or ethyl. Detailsconcerning the preparation of these polymers can be found in U.S. Pat.Nos. 3,288,770, 3,412,019 and 4,772,462, incorporated herein byreference. For example, cationic homopolymers and copolymers ofpolydiallyldimethylammonium chloride are available in aqueouscompositions sold under the trademark MERQUAT by the Calgon Corporation,subsidiary of Merck & Co., Pittsburgh, Pa. The homopolymer, which isnamed Polyquaternium-6 is sold under the trademark MERQUAT-100, and isdescribed as having a weight average molecular weight of approximately100,000. A copolymer reaction product of dimethyldiallylammoniumchloride with acrylamide monomers is named Polyquaternium-7 is describedas having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 500,000 andis sold under the trademark MERQUAT-550. Another copolymer reactionproduct of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride with acrylic acids having aweight average molecular weight from about 50,000 to about 10,000,000has the name Polyquaternium-22 and is sold under the trademarkMERQUAT-280. Polyquaternium-6 is particularly preferred.

Other polymeric conditioners include cationic copolymers ofmethylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinyl pyrrolidone, sold commerciallyby BASF Aktiengesellschaft, West Germany under the trademark LUVIQUAT atthree comonomer ratios, namely at ratios of 95/5, 50/50 and 30/70methylvinylimidazolium chloride to polyvinylpyrrolidone. Thesecopolymers at all three comonomer ratios have the name Polyquaternium16. Polymeric conditioners also include cationic cellulosic polymers ofhydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with epichlorohydrin and quaternized withtrimethylamine, sold under the trademark POLYMER JR in various viscositygrades and molecular sizes by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn.These series of polymers are named Polyquaternium 10. Also useful arequaternized copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose anddimethyldimethylammonium chloride, having the name Polyquaternium-4,sold in varying molecular weights under the trademark CELQUAT byNational Starch and Chemical Corporation, Bridgewater, N.J.

The total amount of the one or more cationic polymers, when included inthe hair color-altering composition, is typically about 0.01 to about 15wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition, including allranges and subranges therebetween. The total amount of the one or morecationic polymers may be about 0.01 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.01 toabout 6 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 8 wt. %,about 0.05 to about 6 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.1 toabout 10 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 6 wt. %,or about 0.1 to about 5 wt.

Solvent

In one or more embodiments, the hair color-altering compositionsdescribed herein comprise a solvent. In some embodiments, the solventcomprises water. The total amount of water in the hair color-alteringcompositions may vary depending on the type of composition and thedesired consistency, viscosity, etc. In some cases, the total amount ofwater is about 50 to 95 wt. %, based on the total weight of the haircolor-altering composition, including all ranges and subrangestherebetween. The total amount of water may be about 50 to about 90 wt.%, about 50 to about 85 wt. %, about 60 to 95 wt. %, about 60 to 90 wt.%, about 60 to about 85 wt. %, greater than 60 to about 95 wt. %,greater than 60 to about 90 wt. %, greater than 60 to about 85 wt. %,about 65 to about 95 wt. %, about 65 to about 90 wt. %, about 65 toabout 85 wt. %, about 70 to about 95 wt. %, or about 70 to about 90 wt.%. In some instances, the total amount of water is greater than 60 wt.%. For example, the total amount of water may be at least 61, 62, 63,64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, or 70 wt. % up to about 90 or about 95 wt. %.Likewise, the total amount of water may be at least 61, 62, 63, 64, 65,66, 67, 68, 69, or 70 wt. % to about 95 wt. %, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66,67, 68, 69, or 70 wt. % to about 90 wt. %, or about 70 wt. % to about 90wt. %.

In some embodiments, the composition may comprise other solvents, forexample, glycerin, C₁₋₄ alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols,fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineraloils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or any a mixture thereof. Asexamples of organic solvents, non-limiting mentions can be made ofmonoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol,propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols orglycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutylethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as,for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol,hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers ofdiethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether ofdiethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents areethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol,propane diol, and glycerin. The organic solvents can be volatile ornon-volatile compounds.

Further non-limiting examples of solvents which may be used includealkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol,trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethyleneglycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol,dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol,2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol,1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, andisopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether,ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether,ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethylether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycolmono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethyleneglycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether,ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butylether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether,propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether,propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propylether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethylether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycolmono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone,1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethylsulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetine, diacetine, triacetine, sulfolane,and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the water-soluble solvent may be selected from the groupconsisting of one or more glycols, C₁₋₄ alcohols, glycerin, and amixture thereof. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent is selectedfrom the group consisting of hexylene glycol, proplene glycol, caprylylglycol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols includeglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol,propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol,1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol,1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol,2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol,1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof.

Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include thealiphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol,3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol,2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol,2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, and2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of the water-soluble solvents (which is separate thanthe water in the compositions) may vary, but in some cases are about0.01 to about 50 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition.The total amount of the water-soluble solvents (separate from the waterin the compositions), is about 0.01 to about 40 wt. %, about 0.01 toabout 30 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, 0.1 to about 40 wt. %, about 0.1 toabout 30 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %.

Thickening Agent

In some embodiments, the hair color-altering composition furthercomprises a thickening agent. In other embodiments, the haircolor-altering composition does not comprise a thickening agent.

The hair color-altering compositions may contain one or more thickeners(also referred to as thickening agents or viscosity modifying agents).Classes of such agents include, but are not limited to, viscous liquids,such as polyethylene glycol, semisynthetic polymers, such assemisynthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such ascarbomers, poloxamers, and acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer,acrylates copolymer, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturallyoccurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodiumalginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, petroleumjelly, waxes, particulate associate colloids, such as bentonite,colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, surfactants,such as PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, emulsifiers, such asdisteareth-75 IPDI, and salts, such as sodium chloride, starches, suchas hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, potato starch (modified orunmodified), celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, guars such ashydroxypropyl guar, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the thickening agents may include one or more associativethickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphotericassociative polymers, cationic associative polymers, nonionicassociative polymers, and a mixture thereof. A non-limiting example ofan amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates/beheneth-25methacrylatecopolymer, sold under the tradename NOVETHIX L-10 (Lubrizol).Non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include INCI name:acrylates copolymer, sold under the tradename CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1(Lubrizol), INCI name: acrylates crosspolymer-4, sold under thetradename CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 (Lubrizol), and a mixture thereof. Theassociative thickening polymers, for instance, the acrylates copolymerand/or the acrylates crosspolymer-4, may be neutralized in water or anaqueous solution with a neutralizing agent before the polymer is addedinto a hair color-altering composition.

In some embodiments, the thickener is chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose,cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and combinations thereof.

The total amount of the one or more thickening agents may vary, but insome cases is about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %,about 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 6 wt. %, about 0.1 toabout 5 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 8 wt. %,about 0.5 to about wt. %, about 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, about 1 to about10 wt. %, about 1 to about 8 wt. %, about 1 to about 6 wt. %, or about 1to about 5 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition.

Optional Components

The composition according to the disclosure can comprise any auxiliaryor additional component suitable for use in cosmetic compositions, andin particular suitable for hair coloring or lightening compositions.Such components may include, but are not limited to, cosmeticallyacceptable solvents, silicone compounds, rheology modifying agents suchas acrylic polymers, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionicsurfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphotericor zwitterionic polymers or mixtures, film forming agents or polymers,humectants and moisturizing agents, fatty substances other than theclaimed fatty substances, emulsifying agents other than fattysubstances, fillers, structuring agents, propellants, shine agents,conditioning agents, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrants,sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents, forinstance volatile or non-volatile, modified or unmodified silicones,ceramides, preserving agents, opacifiers, sunscreen agents, andantistatic agents. Acids, for example citric acid, can affect the pH ofthe system resulting in loss of lift. As such, optional auxiliary oradditional components will be chosen so as to minimize any detrimentaleffect to the advantages of the hair color bases and compositionsdescribed herein.

Exemplary auxiliary ingredients useful in the hair color compositionaccording to various embodiments of the disclosure include, but are notlimited to, rheology-modifying agents, bleach activators and co-bleachactivators, direct dyes, chelants, fatty substances, ceramides,alkoxyaminosilicones, silanes, and lift-enhancing agents, such asnitrogen-containing compounds and metal catalyst compounds.

The composition may also contain acid and alkali pH adjusters, which arewell known in the art in the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, suchas hair. Such pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodiummetasilicate, silicate compounds, citric acid, ascorbic acid, andcarbonate compounds.

The pH adjusters may, in various embodiments, be present in the haircolor composition in an amount effective with a pH of greater than 7.

The hair color-altering compositions of the instant disclosure may befree or essentially free of taurate surfactants and salts thereof. Forexample, the compositions may be free or essentially free of tauratesurfactants and salts thereof, of the following formula:

R₁CO—NR₂—CH₂CH₂SO₃M,

wherein R₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with anaverage number of carbon atoms of 7-19; R₂ denotes hydrogen or an alkylgroup with an average number of carbon atoms of 1-3; and M denotes analkali metal, alkali earth metal, ammonium, or organic amine orderivative. Specific examples include N-methyl cocoyl taurate and sodiumcocoyl taurate.

The compositions of the disclosure may be free or essentially free ofpolyethylene glycol (PEG) and/or derivatives thereof and may be free oressentially free of propylene glycol (PPG) and/or derivatives thereof.For example, the compositions may be free or essentially free ofpolyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 200-10,000, orpolyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 200-1,000.Furthermore, PEGylated surfactants may also be excluded from the haircolor-altering compositions. Non-limiting examples of PEGylatedsurfactants include ethoxylated fatty esters.

Kits

Another aspect of the invention pertains to kits which comprise any ofthe hair color-altering agents described herein. In some embodiments,the kit further comprises a developer composition. The developercomposition may be housed in a separate container from the haircolor-altering composition, and may then be mixed prior to applicationonto hair.

In some embodiments, the developer composition is aqueous or is in theform of an emulsion. The developer composition can contain at least onesolvent, chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.

In alternative embodiments, the developer composition is substantiallyanhydrous. The term “substantially anhydrous” means that the developercomposition is either completely free of water or contains noappreciable amount of water, for example, no more than 5% by weight, orno more than 2% by weight, or no more than 1% by weight, based on theweight of the developer composition. It should be noted that this refersfor example to bound water, such as the water of crystallization of thesalts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in thepreparation of the compositions according to embodiments of thedisclosure.

When the developer composition is substantially anhydrous, the developercomposition may comprise at least one solvent chosen from organicsolvents. Suitable organic solvents for use in the developer compositioninclude ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, propanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, glycols and glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol,hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutylether, propylene glycol and its ethers, such as propylene glycolmonomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycolalkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monobutylether, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexyleneglycol, propane diol, glycerin, hydrocarbons such as straight chainhydrocarbons, mineral oil, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene,hydrogenated polydecene, polydecene, squalane, petrolatum, isoparaffins,and mixtures, thereof.

The organic solvents for use in the present invention can be volatile ornon-volatile compounds. The organic solvent may, for example, be presentin an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 70% by weight, such asfrom about 2% to about 60% by weight, preferably from about 5 to about50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the developer compositionor system in which it is present.

The developer composition may be in the form of a powder, gel, liquid,foam, lotion, cream, mousse, and emulsion.

The pH of the developer composition can range from about 2 to about 12,such as from about 6 to about 11, and it may be adjusted to the desiredvalue using acidifying/alkalizing agents that are well known in the art.In certain embodiments, the pH of the developer composition is below 7.The pH of the composition resulting from mixing together the haircolor-altering composition and the developer composition may range fromabout 7, 8, 9, 10 or 11 to about 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12.

According to at least one embodiment, the system and/or compositionscomprising the system and the developer composition are free orsubstantially free of ammonia.

Methods

Another aspect of the invention pertains to methods of using any of thecompositions described herein. In one or more embodiments, the methodcomprises applying the hair color-altering composition to hair. Thecomposition may be left on the hair for a period of time sufficient toachieve the desired alteration in hair tone. For example, the hair colorcomposition may be left on the hair for up to one hour, such as fromabout 3 minutes to about 45 minutes, from about 5 minutes to about 30minutes, or from about 10 minutes to about 20 minutes. In furtherembodiments, the hair color composition may be left on the hair for aperiod up to about 30 minutes, such as, for example, from about 1 toabout 30 minutes, about 1 to about 10 minutes, or about 1 to about 5minutes. One skilled in the art will, by considering various factorssuch as the starting and desired tones of the hair, be able to determinean appropriate amount of time to leave the hair color composition on thehair in order to achieve the desired alternation in hair tone. By way ofnon-limiting example, various embodiments according to the disclosuremay provide for an increase of 1 to 4 in the tone height of the hair. Insome embodiments, the hair color-altering composition is mixed with adeveloper composition prior to application to hair. If desired, thecomposition may, optionally, be shampooed and/or rinsed off the hair.

EXAMPLES

Implementation of the present disclosure is provided by way of thefollowing examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technologywithout being limiting in nature.

Example 1

Three formulas were prepared with the ingredients shown below inTable 1. Comparative Example 1 is comparative for at least the reason itdoes not contain citric acid. Examples 2 and 3 are inventive. The threeformulas were in the form of a cream.

TABLE 1 Comp. Inv. Inv. Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 INCI US wt. % wt. % wt. %FATTY COMPOUND OLEYL ALCOHOL 2 2 2 NONIONIC SURFACTANT DECETH-3 2.7 2.72.7 FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.75 0.75 0.75 AMINO ACID TAURINE 2.16 ANIONICSURFACTANT OLEIC ACID 2.7 2.7 2.7 THICKENER CETYL 0.15 0.15HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE ALKALIZING AGENT AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 8.1477 8.14778.1477 ALKALIZING AGENT ETHANOLAMINE 0.63 3 3.78 CATIONIC POLYMERPOLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.64 0.64 0.64 FATTY COMPOUND GLYCOL DISTEARATE 3 3 2FATTY COMPOUND CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16 16 3 MISC. (COLORANT, MISC. 2.27 2.272.27 ANTISTATIC, CHELANT, ANTIOXIDANT) SOLVENT WATER 53.7123 48.842359.5423 CARBOXYLIC ACID CITRIC ACID 2.5 3.31 FATTY COMPOUND MINERAL OIL3 3 3 THICKENER HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.3 0.3

Thermo-rheology measurements were taken of the three formulas, and theevolution of elastic modulus (G′) measured as a function of time andtemperature. These plots are shown in FIG. 1A-B. As seen from thefigures, the G′ of Comparative Example 1 dropped significantly astemperature increased, although it remained relatively stable withrespect to time. Inventive Example 2 decreased somewhat with increasedtemperature, as well as changed the least with respect to time.Inventive Example 3 remained fairly constant with respect to bothtemperature and time. This indicates an increase in stability in the twoinventive formulas.

Example 2

B C D E F INCI U.S. wt. % wt. % wt. % wt. % wt. % Amino Acid TAURINE0.03 0.1 0.01 0.08 0.06 Carboxylic CITRIC ACID 0.6 0.9 1.2 1.4 1.7 AcidAlkalizing AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 5.8 5.8 5.8 5.8 5.8 Agent ETHANOLAMINE 77.1 7.3 7.4 7.5 SODIUM METABISULFITE 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Colorants6-HYDROXYINDOLE, TOLUENE- ≤2 ≤2 ≤2 ≤2 ≤2 2,5-DIAMINE, m-AMINOPHENOL,p-AMINOPHENOL, 2- METHYLRESORCINOL, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, AND/OR RESORCINOLFatty GLYCOL DISTEARATE, 26 24.5 26 24.5 26 Compounds CETEARYL ALCOHOL,OLEYL ALCOHOL, AND/OR HYDROGENATED VEG. OIL Cationic POLYQUATERNIUM-60.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Polymer Nonionic LAURETH-12 AND/OR 9 6 6 9 6Surfactant OLETH-30 Anionic OLEIC ACID 2 2 2 2 2 Surfactant PolymerHEXADIMETHRINE CHLORIDE 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Thickener CETYLHYDROXYETHYL- 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 CELLULOSE AND/ORHYDROXYETHYL-CELLULOSE Miscellaneous Preservative(s), Fragrance, pH ≤3≤3 ≤3 ≤3 ≤3 adjuster(s), etc. Water WATER QS QS QS QS QS 100 100 100 100100

Compositions B-F were prepared and their performance compared with acommercial benchmark product. Hair tresses of highly bleached Caucasianhair (1 g/27 cm) of approximately fifty hair fibers were treated threetimes as outlined below, and then subjected to testing using a MiniatureTensile Tester (MTT). The commercial benchmark product and each ofCompositions B-F were mixed with 40V developer composition in a ratio of1:2 (Benchmark/Compositions B-F: Developer Composition). 8 grams of thecommercial benchmark product or Composition B-F was mixed with 16 gramsof 40V developer composition and each of the mixtures were used to treattwo hair tresses. The mixtures were applied to the hair tresses andallowed to process for 50 minutes. After 50 minutes of processing, thehair tresses were rinsed and then shampooed three times. After beingshampooed three times, the hair tresses were blow dried. The process wasrepeated two more times, i.e., the entire hair coloring process wascarried out for a total of three times. The tresses were then subjectedto break stress testing and to elastic modulus testing.

Break Stress Testing

The break stress represents the force/area needed to break the hairfiber. A higher break stress represents a stronger and stiffer hairfiber. The hair tresses treated as set forth above were subjected tobreak stress testing. The results are provided in the table below, andgraphically presented in FIG. 2.

Break Stress Composition (MPa) StdDev Count Composition E 114.6 17.92 49Commercial Benchmark 101.7 21.31 46 Composition B 96.48 20.25 48Composition F 108.8 20.42 48 Composition D 106.6 22.59 43 Composition C103.3 27.71 49

Treatment with Composition E resulted in a statistically higher breakstress compared to the commercial benchmark product. Treatment withCompositions B, C, D, and F resulted in a break stress that was similarto treatment with the commercial benchmark product. There was nostatistical difference in break stress for hair tresses treated withCompositions B, C, D, and F compared to hair tresses treated with thecommercial benchmark product.

Elastic Modulus Testing (Young's Modulus)

The Young's modulus represents a measure of the hair's spring-likestructure (elasticity). The mean Young's modulus for the hair tressestreated as set forth above was determined. The results are provided inthe table below and graphically presented in FIG. 3.

Elastic Modulus Composition (MPa) StdDev Count Commercial Benchmark725.1 331.4 46 Composition F 776.1 341.2 48 Composition B 833.2 267.2 48Composition E 802.6 281.0 49 Composition D 753.0 293.7 43 Composition C725.7 289.8 49

Treatment with Compositions B-F resulted in an elastic modulus that wassimilar to treatment with the commercial benchmark product. There was nostatistical difference in elastic modulus for hair tresses treated withCompositions B-F compared to hair tresses treated with the commercialbenchmark product.

As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” (or“comprise,” “have,” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limitingsense.

The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural aswell as the singular.

Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” also relates to “mixtures thereof.”Throughout the disclosure, the the term “a mixture thereof” is used,following a list of elements as shown in the following example whereletters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected fromthe group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.” Theterm, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include allof A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may beincluded). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A,B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent tothe phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting ofA, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, andF.”

Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.”Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the groupconsisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,”it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included,one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, asalt of E, and a salt of F may be include, or a mixture of any two of A,B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, asalt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

The salts, for example, the salts of the amino acids, the amino sulfonicacids, and the non-polymeric mono, di, and/or tricarboxylic acids, whichare referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having acounter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammoniumcounterion. This list of counterions, however, is non-limiting.

The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includesindividual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, allnumbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditionsare to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about,” meaning within +/−5% of the indicated number.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weightof the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwiseindicated.

“Keratinous substrates” as used herein, includes, but is not limited tokeratin fibers such as hair and/or scalp on the human head.

“Conditioning” as used herein means imparting to one or more hair fibersat least one property chosen from combability, moisture-retentivity,luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning can be evaluatedby any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring, andcomparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of theuntreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in), and consumerperception.

The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refersto the application of the compositions of the present disclosure ontothe surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term ‘treat” (andits grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contactingkeratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the presentdisclosure.

A “rinse-off” product refers to a composition such as a haircolor-altering composition that is rinsed and/or washed with watereither after or during the application of the composition onto thekeratinous substrate, and before drying and/or styling said keratinoussubstrate. At least a portion, and typically most, of the composition isremoved from the keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing.

The term “stable” as used herein means that the composition does notexhibit phase separation and/or crystallization for a period of time,for example, for at least 1 day (24 hours), one week, one month, or oneyear.

“Volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of less thanabout 100° C.

“Non-volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of greaterthan about 100° C.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specificrange within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as wellas sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

The term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein meansthat there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material addedto a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions.Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 3 wt. %, lessthan about 2 wt. %, less than about 1 wt. %, less than about 0.5 wt. %,less than about 0.1 wt. %, or none of the specified material.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. Forexamples, any value or point described herein that falls within a rangedescribed herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive asub-range, etc.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification areherein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as ifeach individual publication or patent application were specifically andindividually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event ofan inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications orpatent application incorporated herein by reference, the presentdisclosure controls.

1. A hair color-altering composition comprising: at least one amino acidor amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt thereof selected from the groupconsisting of taurine, aspartic acid, cysteine, lysine, methionine,tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine, aminomethane sulfonic acid,aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid,aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid,chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenolsulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzenesulfonic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof; at least onecarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid,malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid,citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid,fumaric acid, benzoic acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid,propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, and combinationsthereof; a hair color-altering agent selected from the group consistingof oxidizing agents, oxidative dyes, direct dyes and combinationsthereof; and water.
 2. The hair color-altering composition of claim 1,wherein the at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid and/or saltthereof is taurine and/or a salt thereof.
 3. The hair color-alteringcomposition of claim 1, comprising from about 0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt.% of the at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid and/or a saltthereof.
 4. The hair color-altering composition of claim 3, wherein theat least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid and/or a salt thereof ispresent in an amount of from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. %.
 5. Thehair color-altering composition of claim 1 comprising at least 0.01 wt.% to about 10 wt. % of the at least one carboxylic acid and/or a saltthereof.
 6. The hair color-altering composition of claim 5, wherein theat least one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in anamount of from about 0.01 wt. % to about 7 wt. %.
 7. The haircolor-altering composition of claim 5, wherein the at least onecarboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof is a tricarboxylic acid and/or asalt thereof.
 8. The hair color-altering composition of claim 7, whereinthe tricarboxylic acid and/or salt thereof is selected from the groupconsisting of citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid,propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, a salt thereof, and amixture thereof.
 9. The hair color-altering composition of claim 8,wherein the tricarboxylic acid and/or salt thereof is citric acid,and/or a salt thereof.
 10. The hair color-altering composition of claim1, further comprising one or more alkalizing agents.
 11. The haircolor-altering composition of claim 10, wherein the one or morealkalizing agents is selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metalphosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, and combinationsthereof.
 12. The hair color-altering composition of claim 11, whereinthe one or more alkalizing agents is selected from the group consistingof ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and combinations thereof. 13.The hair color-altering composition of claim 1, further comprising oneor more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting oils, mineraloil, alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives,alkoxylated fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids,propylene glycol esters of fatty acids, butylene glycol esters of fattyacids, esters of neopentyl glycol and fatty acids, polyglycerol/glycerolesters of fatty acids, glycol diesters or diesters of ethylene glycoland fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, esters ofshort chain alcohols and fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols,hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin,ceramide, and mixtures thereof.
 14. The hair color-altering compositionof claim 1 comprising: one or more cationic polymers.
 15. The haircolor-altering composition of claim 14, wherein the one or more cationicpolymers are selected from the group consisting ofpoly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride),polyquaternium-37, quaternized cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-4,polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10, cationic alkyl polyglycosides,cationized honey, cationic guar derivatives, polymeric dimethyl diallylammonium salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylicacid and methacrylic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone withquaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate,vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers,quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-7,polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-24,polyquaternium-27, and a mixture thereof.
 16. The hair color-alteringcomposition of claim 1, wherein the hair color-altering agent comprisesand oxidative dye.
 17. A hair cosmetic composition for lifting oraltering the color of keratinous substrates comprising: a. at least onealkalizing agent selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metalphosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, and mixturesthereof; b. at least two fatty substances selected from alkanescomprising 6 to 16 carbon atoms, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids,esters of fatty alcohol, non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes,silicones and mixtures thereof; c. at least one surfactant selected fromanionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof; d. atleast one cationic polymer; e. at least one solvent selected from water,organic solvents and mixtures thereof; and f. at least one carboxylicacid selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid,glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid,tartaric acid, malic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid,benzoic acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid,propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, and combinationsthereof.
 18. The hair color-altering composition of claim 17, furthercomprising at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or a saltthereof selected from the group consisting of taurine, aspartic acid,cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine,aminomethane sulfonic acid, aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid,aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzenesulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonicacid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid.
 19. The hair color alteringcomposition of claim 18, wherein the at least one amino acid or aminosulfonic acid comprises taurine.
 20. The hair color-altering compositionof claim 17, further comprising at least one hair color-altering agent.21. The hair color-altering composition of claim 20, wherein the atleast one hair color-altering agent comprises at least one oxidativedye.
 22. The hair color-altering composition of claim 17, wherein the atleast one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in an amountof about 0.05 wt. % to about 10 wt. % by total weight of thecomposition.
 23. The hair color-altering composition of claim 17,wherein the at least one alkalizing agent is selected from the groupconsisting of monoethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, and mixturesthereof.
 24. The hair color-altering composition of claim 17, whereinthe cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting ofpoly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride),polyquaternium-37, quaternized cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-4,polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10, cationic alkyl polyglycosides,cationized honey, cationic guar derivatives, polymeric dimethyl diallylammonium salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylicacid and methacrylic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone withquaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate,vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers,quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-7,polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-24,polyquaternium-27, and a mixture thereof.
 25. The hair color-alteringcomposition of claim 17, wherein the at least two fatty substances areselected from mineral oil, cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, glycoldistearate, hydrogenated vegetable oil, and mixtures thereof.
 26. Thehair color-altering composition of claim 17, wherein the haircolor-altering composition does not comprise a thickener, cellulose orgum.
 27. The hair color-altering composition of claim 17, wherein the atleast one surfactant comprises an anionic surfactant selected from oleicacid and/or a nonionic surfactant selected from deceth-3, oleth-30 andcombinations thereof.